Taking time out in anchorages of South West Sardinia. 


Paul and Kirsty Nicholls from our home town of Darwin arrived literally just hours after our docking in Cagliari Marina. Despite looking rather hot and exhausted from their “moving day” from Vilnius in Lithuania, there was no time wasted as we headed off to find the local supermarket to provision for their stay. It never ceases to amaze us that even with Google Maps we seem to be able to walk twice the distance required to find the supermarket then we do on the return trip. A positive I guess given we are laden with groceries on our return. Thank goodness for our “granny trolley” or the “truck" as it has come to be called. 

In the cooler temperature of the evening we headed into the old town area and found a local seafood restaurant before wandering further up the hill to the Bastion of St Remy. This huge imposing limestone monument was built on the medieval city fortification ruins with the purpose of linking the Castello with the suburbs below of Villanova and Marina. Completed in 1901 the staircase opens out on top to a large terrace area called “Umberto I”. Ascending the stairs not only gives one a rather good cardiac workout but rewards your efforts with a magnificent view of Cagliari itself. Under the lights at night it is certainly an imposing sight. Of course for those not wanting to ascend the stairs there is a very tasty gelato store conveniently located across the road from the stairway. 

With only six nights onboard Katherine and having already had a few weeks taking in historical sites of Northern Europe it was agreed that Paul and Kirsty’s time onboard would be more about sailing and relaxation. So the next morning we turned the boat back west - yes we know we are meant to be heading east - and sailed back to Porto Pino the anchorage we had arrived into just a few days prior. 

Reflections on anchor Porto Pino 

Porto Pino was as at it had been on our arrival. The most pristine water over the whitest sand. In the still of the morning before the afternoon breeze came in the boat reflected in its entirety and the chain once more could be followed clearly to where it was securely buried. 

The paddle boards were dug out for the first time this season and as always provided a challenge when the sea state became a little more lively. 

We took the dinghy into the harbour area on our second day on anchor for lunch. The channel leading into the harbour was wall to wall small fishing boats though we are yet to be convinced there are any fish to be caught. 

Lunch was had at the Blue Marlin, a restaurant set back from the beach front that has obviously been around for a long time going by the photos adorning the walls and the size of the tree trunk in the centre of the restaurant. The seafood was certainly good though we often think our taste buds are extra satisfied when the ambience is so pleasing. How many restaurants do you go to that the waiter on your way back to the tender goes past in his car, waves enthusiastically calling out “Ciao”. 

The Blue Marlin Porto Pino

With very satisfied stomachs we made our way back to Katherine and had a late afternoon sail down the coast a short distance to Capo Malfatano. 

Each evening we have been treated to the most magnificent sunsets. We are from Darwin where we are spoilt by beautiful sunsets but here the sunsets seem to take on an increased level of colour with the intensity continuing right up until the last moment of the sun disappearing for the evening. 

On dark the squid tackle came out in the hope that if we couldn't catch a fish then perhaps some fresh calamari on the plate would suffice. In Capo Malfatano our hopes were lifted as we noticed several small fishing boats squidding nearby. Unfortunately our jiggle was obviously not what the squid were looking for and the only seafood we were going to be eating over the next few days was definitely coming from the beach side restaurants. 

An impressive sight two X-yachts on anchor together (of course we are biased)

Tuesday the 23rd of July lunch again was ashore a short distance from Katherine at the Malfatano Beach Restaurant. Here we were  joined by Paul and Nicole who had just sailed in on the X55 Savvy of London. We have known Paul for many years, meeting him first in Denmark in 2014 when he was launching Savvy. Last winter both boats were together in Cartagena so it was special to have Savvy sail in and to be able to share some time on the water together. 

After an explore of the bay in the dinghy it was decided to move onto the bay of Perda Longa not more than a mile from our  anchorage but where the water with sand rather than weed looked far more inviting for swimming. So enjoyable was that bay that the following morning when we had planned to be moving to be leaving for the bay of Nada with its Roman Ruins and closer proximity to Cagliari, it was unanimously decided to stay put and so we did. 

Before leaving we were delighted to be given some aerial photos of Katherine on anchor taken by Paul with his drone. 

Dolphins came to play as we came into the bay of Cagliari 

All too soon Thursday 25th July was upon us and we needed to return to Cagliari for Paul and Kirsty to continue the last stage of their trip. We arrived back into harbour with just hours to spare for them to catch their flight. 

As we approached the harbour of Cagliari a group of dolphins came out to play with the bow of the boat. One looking as though he was actually using the bow wake to scratch his back. The clarity of the water making visibility of the dolphins amazing. A great way to finish off their trip onboard Katherine. 

So as Paul and Kirsty headed off to a wedding in Como we made preparations first for Andrews birthday celebrations and secondly to set sail for Sicily. 

Time to get moving further east, but as we depart we have a whole new appreciation for Southern Sardinia. 

(Click for more photos)

© SV Katherine 2018      Cover Photo: Katherine on Anchor Isle Tabarca Spain