030714 - Week 9 - Weve arrived Lofoten

26th June - 2nd July 

Another week of cruising amongst snow capped mountains and fjords. 

140626 31 Selvagen Lavika Anchorage

Our first anchorage after Svartisen Glacier was just a short distance of 37 miles away at Selvagen Lavika a lagoon on the island of Fleina in a depth of around 20 meters after having negotiated a dogleg through rocks. Given we were the only boat tucked away in this hideaway it was easy to put out plenty of chain and know we were secure on anchor. If you took away the image of the snow capped peaks in the background and added another ten degrees to the temperature one could have been excused for thinking we were on anchor somewhere in the Whitsundays. 

140627 4 Bodo Harbour restaurant with feast of seafood.jpg

From Selvagen we headed just another twenty miles north to the town of Bodo a major centre for this area for both transport and supplies. We stayed only one night here to provision before heading further north to the town of Tranoy. The highlight of our quick visit to Bodo was dining at a cafe/restaurant on the water front where we indulged in the tenderest panko crumbed fish, sumptuous lobster and prawns washed down with a glass of bubbles for the girls whilst baking in the summer sun!

140628 13 Grotoy Harbour 10pm at night and busy.jpg

Next stop - the now set maximum distance of 30 miles or so for the day was the harbour of Grotoy / Nordskot a small fishing harbour that on our arrival was busy with the summer visitors fishing from the pontoon into the late evenings and the return of yachts that had participated in the annual Vestifjord Regatta that had departed the day prior. Grotoy would be a great place to stop for a while as there were many walks nearby and roads on which to explore with the bicycles. The Moroya mountain made an impressive backdrop to be parked by. 

140630 31 Tranoy Harbour final fix to  halyards Andrew

Another day and another harbour - this time Tranoy - but here we opted to stay for two nights to spend some time around the area and try and solve the twisting Code 0 Halyard. This has been causing us problems for the past year and requiring Andrew to go up the mast regularly. So after a day of relaxed touring it was time to tackle the Code 0 Halyard, several trips to the top of the mast, moused it out and reversed, spliced the tail and connected a swivel to the attachment point on the top of the mast, here's hoping ! 

140630 2 Tranoy Harbour.jpg

In Tranoy we discovered the most unusual art collection that to date we have come across. Each year the residents raise funds for a sculpture of some medium to be added to a collection that is spread across the communities paddocks and rocks. Though the pontoons in the harbour were in somewhat need of maintenance the surrounding crystal clear water, white sand beaches, old whaling ship converted to a cafe on the dock and  the friendliest fisherman who gifted a bag of crab claws to Nell, made it just another  great place to visit. 

140701 7 On anchor Gullvika Lee and Nell Kayaking.jpg

                   After many weeks of heading North we finally turned west for our first official night in Lofoten in the anchorage of Gullvika. Here we found ourselves for the first time on anchor in the company of other yachts. A great anchorage where we pulled out the kayak and took a hike to one of the many peaks and discovered a lake not to mention a healthy population of marsh flies.  It took a bit to convince ourselves to move on again the following day.

140702 20 Trollfjorden Katherine with waterfall.jpg

So Wednesday saw us motor, to Trollfjorden, one of the major tourist attractions of this area and upon entry into this steep narrow fjord we could understand why. We were privileged to have the fjord pretty much to ourselves - and I certainly would not want to be passing a Hurtigurten ship inside those walls. 

From Trollfjorden we made our way to Svolvaer where we are today - tied up to the pier surrounded by fishing boats as the small marina is too shallow for Katherine. Our intention had been to hire a car but its summer and tourist season and they are all booked out till next week - Andrew couldn't even find availability at three different Frisors! So we will modify our plans, move further west and perhaps return with a pre booked car in a week or so. 

Sun is still shining, weather is holding and we are still in awe of this sailing area. 


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© SV Katherine 2017      Cover Photo: Katherine on Anchor Faro Portugal with Askari of Australia