190614 Week 7 Trondheim to Bronnoysund - The Gateway to the Arctic 

12th June - 18th June 

Having arrived into Trondheim we had successfully sailed just over 800nm in eleven days with just 300nm to reach our goal of Lofiten over the next six weeks. Sounds easy but we have already learnt the weather changes here both in severity and direction rather rapidly and will be taking our time to pick our weather windows to make the final run north. 

140613 1 Arriving Trondheim

We were met at the dock in Trondheim by Darb and Nell good friends who will join us for the next few weeks to take in the sailing of Hegeland - an area between Bronnysund in the South and Bodo to the north. There has not been one Norwegian sailor that we have met in the last week who has not advised us to make sure we take the opportunity to see as much of Hegeland that we can as they consider it to be one of the best cruising areas of northern Norway. 

Perhaps it was the arrival of our guests, or that the sun shone for our tour day but Trondheim turned out to be a beautiful city to visit. Trondheim was established back in 997 when apparently King Olav decided there should be a town at the mouth of the Nidelva river and so the town of Trondheim then known as Nadirs came to be and for a long time was the of capital of Norway. A common theme in these towns seems to be a "great fire" and as with Alesund Trondheim suffered a catastrophic fire in 1681 which saw it rebuilt with a grid like layout that exists today. 

140614 5 Gamle Bybro Old Town Bridge Trondheim 140614 6 Bryggene the oldest buildings go back to the 1700s Trondheim

Although we missed the opportunity to see Nidaros Cathedral (1320) that houses the tomb of King Olav we did spend the day walking the cobblestone streets of the town centre, crossed the Gamle Bybro (Old Bridge 1861) that gave a great vista of the Bryggene (Wharf area) where a collection of colourful wharf buildings stand from the 1700's to 1900's as they have always done. Once across the bridge it was a short stroll through the "Blakklandet" an area developed back in the 19th and 20th century to house the working class. The timber buildings have so much character it truly is hard to know when to stop taking photographs. Perhaps the biggest surprise as we wandered back to the boat was the hospital area that we passed. The Hospital is one of the oldest social institutions in Scandanavia dating back to 1277. The history here is difficult to comprehend when our own history in Australia is so short in comparison. 

140615 6 Overnight anchorage Roan Fishing Harbour

Sunday 15th we anchored overnight in a fishing harbour called Roan. The wind blew throughout the night as was to be expected and Katherine danced on her anchor as she always does. Though we know she holds well you just can't help but get up a few times during the night to check the anchor alarm is set and we are where we were meant to be. One thing for sure is that with the summer nights (no darkness) its easy to check!

140616 5 Rorvik Harbour thanks to the search and rescue we got a spot

Monday 16th we pulled into Rorvik where the harbour was full but thanks to the kindness of the Harbour master who contacted the Sea Rescue guys we were allocated a spot on their wash dock. Now this dock was made of three sections and floated and with the forecast winds we were a little concerned that we could end up drifting off with both the dock and the small boats attached. A few additional lines back to a pier and the land and we were happy. 

140617 6 Kystmuseum Coastal Museum Rorvik

The highlight for the residents and shop owners of Rorvik seems to be that the Hurtigurten North and South ships stop for one hour each night and subsequently the town operates to accommodate this. We checked out the Kystmuseum (Coastal) museum but unfortunately the old museum that houses all the old fishing boats was not opening till next week - when it will be summer. 

TOrgatten

From Rorvik we have moved onto Bronnoysund. Arriving into Bronnoysound we had to take the longer western route as we were unable to fit under the 30 meter bridge (slight issue once more with a 32m mast) but the up side was we got our first view of the mountain of Torghatten with its 160m long hole that runs right through it. 

The weather has been blowing hard from the north and the temperatures somewhat chilled - it was 3 degrees this morning and hailing. We plan to stay in Bronnyosund for a few days - we have hired a car with character and will land tour till we can make our next move north. In harbour we have the company of two other boats that we have seen regularly since Trondheim - a dutch couple "Stormvogel" and a swedish boat  "Holiday" all of us aiming for the same place and just hoping the weather agrees and the sun occasionally shines.  


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© SV Katherine 2017      Cover Photo: Katherine on Anchor Faro Portugal with Askari of Australia