Week 12 and a bit - Enjoying sunshine, anchorages, quaint harbours and birthday celebrations

17th July - 30th July

It certainly has been a week of diversity between quiet secluded anchorages to overflowing small harbours filled with locals out making the most of their summer break and the record breaking heat.

140718 8 Visiting the Peter Dass Museum140718 10 Visiting the Peter Dass Museum140718 18 Visiting the Peter Dass Museum The Rectory

Our first night from Svartisen we anchored in an inlet off Alstahaug close by the Peter Dass Memorial and museum. Prior to coming to Norway we had no idea who this person that to us looked like the jovial character Friar Tuck was, but in many of the harbours around Hegeland we had found mention of his name and statues in his honour. Peter Dass was, we now know, a poet and pastor who lived from 1647 to 1707. He has been memorialised for his pastoral work and his psalm writing that brought religion to the common people who at the time could not read. As part of the millennium celebrations a modern museum building was erected on the site  to record his achievements - the building is an architectural achievement in its own right - the building balances between two sheered pieces of granite and from inside you can look both out to the sea representing the future and back to the land and the  church that dates back to the 1200’s, reflecting on the past. The pastoral buildings which are part of the museum held furniture from the 16 and 1700s all in immaculate condition. It certainly proved to be well worth the visit and the anchorage not only provided good holding, but a great view of the midnight sun and easy access to the museum. 

140718 28 Bronnoysund Harbour full for the Roots Festival

In total contrast to the tranquility of our anchorage at Alstahaug we arrived into Bronnoysund in time for the annual “Roots Festival and to say the harbour was full was an understatement - 50 plus boats crammed into the harbour and overflowing outwards. We were fortunate to find the Gamle Helgeland a 38 meter steel ship built in 1954 alongside the pier and were granted permission to raft up. They even opened their side gate to make boarding from our boat across to theirs a little easier. At one stage during our two day stay we were in a raft of four boats - such is the way in Scandanvia. So in Bronnoysund we listened to the local Roots festival artists, brought fresh prawns from the fisherman and watched the antics of the marina from a safe distance with amusement. 

140720 14 3am Departure Bronnoysund

Not sure if it was to recover from the noise of Bronnoysund but we left at 3am on the Sunday morning - as our dock was literally leaving - and found a very peaceful anchorage amongst some rocks around 30 miles south and there we stayed on anchor for two nights just enjoying the serenity.

140722 8 Brakstad Marina complete with Pub140723 13 Stokksund Aquarius Brygge Lee and Andrew

Our next two nights were in marinas. The first Brakstad was really just a Pub on a rock and a pontoon that operates during summer. Thanks to some courteous power boat people who shuffled around for us we found ourselves in a very convenient spot - close to the pub, a short kayak across the inlet to a beach and a great bush path to walk. Could have stayed in Brakstad a week but moving on another 30 miles or so (now the norm) we pulled into Stokksund that really was full but we managed to tie to the end of the finger. With the weather forecast continuing to be light there was no concern over the pontoon coming adrift - we hoped! Stokksund had a great restaurant called the Aquarius Brygg tucked into the hill overlooking the marina.

140724 8 Dining at The Cheerful Seaman Fish Balls

For Andrews birthday we headed out to a group of small islands and found a spot on a pontoon at Little Aursoya. True to tradition we also found a pub - this one run by a lovely lady called Inga who had established the Den Muntre Matros which interpreted we believe means The Happy Sailor. Inga had done an amazing job of setting up the restaurant area with old sailing antiques. We dined here one night eating the local dish of Fish Balls. The verdict was definitely in favour of the Haddock Balls over the Saithe Balls. Things had obviously improved since our pilot book was written - though we still found one lady using a wheelbarrow to take home her groceries the island does now have one road.

140727 1 Eidestranda

Today we are in Eidestranda a marina that is for sale should you be looking for a sea change. Many boats have pulled in since we arrived yesterday and left - a little too quiet here for their liking but for us it has been a great base to clean the boat inside and out and catch up on the paperwork whilst enjoying another unexpected day of sunshine in Norway.

(Click should you wish to see more photos)

© SV Katherine 2018      Cover Photo: Katherine on Anchor Isle Tabarca Spain