Iceland with Eidelweiss Motorcycle Tour Group
Eidelweiss Fire and Ice Tour
START/FINISH:Reykjavík
NEAREST AIRPORT:Reykjavik
DURATION:11 days vacation, 9 riding days
ROUTE:Total distance: 2077-2175 km, 1291-1351 miles
Daily distances: 158-308 km, 98-191 miles
What better way we thought to celebrate both turning 60 then to head to Iceland for an “Adventure Motorcycle Ride”. It certainly turned out to be everything we could have hoped for and much more.
Arriving into Reykjavik two days before the commencement of the Motorcycle tour we took the opportunity to do a walking Food tour of the capital, which included all sorts of food delights from Hotdogs to rotten fish. Of course on the 14th, time was taken out to enjoy a spa ritual at Sky Lagoon before a very nice glass of champagne, appropriately sized, due to the fact that we were in Iceland and pricing was very reflective of our time in Norway.
15/7/2023 - Officially Day 1 of the tour it was all about getting acquainted with our fellow riders, our bike and the route we were setting off on over the next eleven days. It was also confirmation that this was to be an adventure ride where, if there was an alternative to the paved Ring Road, we would be taking it. There was definitely no doubt that our bikes would not be looking so clean by the end of the tour.
16/7/2023 Reykjavik to Selfoss
Our first ride day was an introduction to the sights and smells of this amazing island where nature plays such a volatile part in the shaping of the landscape. Cruising around the Keflavik Peninsula we started with the viewing of a Replica Viking Ship before taking in the sights and smells of the mud pools and vents at Gunnuhver and standing between two continents on the Eurasian Plate.
There was a quick viewing of the beautiful blue water of Blue Lagoon, though it was a little disappointing to learn that the lagoon was actually man made and formed as a byproduct from the superheated water used to power the nearby Geothermal Power Plant. That however, has not deterred millions of visitors from bathing in the water, particularly those who have found the silica, salt and algae relieving for skin conditions. We were definitely coming back to sample the water at the end of our bike trip.
Lunch was the obligatory Lobster soup - it appears we were destined to compare recipes as we moved around the island and so far there were definitely no complaints.
At the end of the days ride we were all delighted to find that a hot tub awaited at our accommodation - a perfect way to end the day and to watch the setting sun.
17/7/2023 Selfoss - Sauðárkrókur - Heading North
The first part of the day was spent in admiration of the power of nature. Our first stop being at the Geysir Hot Spring Area where we counted down the seconds to witness the release of the Strokkur Geysir. Strokkur releases its pressure every few minutes spouting water to a height of some 30 meters. The Great Geysir for which the area was originally famous remains today relatively dormant, but in its day it was renown for spouting plumes of water to a height of some 170m (558ft).
From bubbling mud pools and spouting Geysers it was a short ride to Gullfoss Waterfall. As we made our way to the viewing carpark the sheer volume of water was breathtaking. The water is fed by the glacier Langjökull, and cascades some 32 meters below into the Gullfossgjúfur canyon. One didn’t have to get too close to get wet.
From here we left the tourist buses and bitumen behind us as we continued north on the scenic F35, destination Sauðárkrókur. The evenings accommodation was at Hotel Tindastoll built in 1884 and yes it did have a naturally heated very hot, hot tub.
18/7/23 - Sauðárkrókur - Akureyri
Today was to be all about the scenery of the coastline but as mother nature always rules we were to ride along water ways shrouded in fog and low cloud. Hot coffee stops were most welcome as the temperature started out at 6 degrees and really didn’t venture much higher during the course of the day.
Our lunch stop was in the small township of Siglufjördur. Hosting a population of just 1300 this township was originally only accessible by sea or a horse and cart path until a rudimentary road was established in 1940. In 2010 a series of tunnels were opened, though still with their own challenge - a single road that has two way traffic necessitating users to ensure they have their eyes open and use the passing bays appropriately. Despite better road access Siglufjördur, The capital of the Herring Fishing Industry in the North Atlantic in 1918, has continued to decline in population due to the closure of the Herring industry in the town in the late 60’s. Dwindling catches blamed on years of over fishing saw the industry come to an end. The importance of the industry to the town is captured in the local Herring Museum spread over three buildings that house everything from the fishing fleet to the processing plant.
From Siglufjördur we followed the coastline of the Eyjafjörður, one of Iceland’s longest fjords that stretches around 60km from the mouth to the bottom of the Fjord. We arrived into Aukureyri early to allow time to visit the local Motorcycle museum before wandering the streets discovering quaint buildings, botanical gardens and the most unique garbage bin covers.
19/7/23 - Ride Day 4 Akureyri - Húsavík
As we rode out of Akureyri in welcomed sunshine the traffic proceeded on the Ring Road through a tunnel while we turned off the bitumen to take the old mountain pass road. A ride that wove its way up over and down the mountain pass with rewarding views of Akureyri and its huge cruise ships, to snow capped mountain peaks in the distance.
Once over the mountain pass we joined the crowds briefly at Godafoss Waterfall. A waterfall with a curved face that expands some 30 meters across from which water cascades 12 meters to a pool below. From Godafoss, it was a short distance to the Lake Myvatn, apparently Icelandic for Lake of Midges. Formed thousands of years ago by a basaltic eruption the lake covers some 37 square kilometers with an average depth of only two and a half meters. It is home to a large diversity of flora and fauna. We only had a short stay to take in the view of the lake dotted with its many islands and thankfully didn’t get acquainted with the local midges. Last stop before arriving at our hotel for the afternoon was at Dimmuborgir. An expanse of lava fields formed some 2300 years ago that is also referred to as the field of Fortresses due to the nature of the lava formations that have been created.
Arriving early afternoon into Husavik our group split up, several heading for the local Whale Museum, several more to the harbour to catch an old fishing boat to try and spot a whale and the last trio headed out to the hillside in search of a good riding track and to unexpectantly test the riding skills of our trusted “leader”. No guessing where Andrew and I headed - a great afternoon out on the water complete with the appearance of a whale.
20/7/23 Husavik to Egilstadir
A 300km ride day today that took us through national parks with unique rock formations, powerful water falls, and striking basalt columns. At times the road lead us through desert like landscapes, lava fields that to the eye appeared devoid of vegetation and very much in stark contrast to other areas of lush greenery.
Stop 1: Ásbyrgi Canyon - a glacial canyon believed to have been formed by a catastrophic glacial flood. The horseshoe shaped canyon is dominated by a rock formation called Eyjan that stands at 25 meters high and runs for more than half its length. Riding in the sheer size of the rock formation was impressive but when we turned to ride out the shape and formation of Eyjan could be truely appreciated. Nestled inside the canyon is a small striking lake called Botnstjörn.
Our final stop for the day was Stuðlagil Canyon - the canyon which holds the largest number of Basalt Columns in Iceland was fully revealed around 2009 when a hydroelectric plant was introduced in the area and the volume of water flowing through was dramatically reduced. It was according to one of our fellow riders 244 steps in total to get to the viewing platform and return - but we all agreed it was well worth the effort even in riding gear to view mother natures artwork in these columns and the turquoise color of the glacial river.
21/7/23 - Egilstadir to Hofn Heading South
Today was once more as Iceland is - all about the scenery. To say around every corner there is another breath taking view simply doesn’t do justice to the sights that we were experiencing and today was just another level again.
We left the bitumen of the Ring Road to take the Oxi Path. A gravel road that weaves and winds its way from sea level to 500m and down again over a distance of only 20km. Due to the narrowness of the road and the changing weather conditions it is not a road recommended to the light hearted tourist driver. For the tour group it was a scenic dirt highlight complete of course with more waterfalls.
After lunch in a restaurant where the food was superb but we all felt a little underdressed the challenge was set to ride into Hoffellsfjöll Glacial Lake. The road was deep in gravel in sections with the odd wash out providing a solid challenge for the end of the day, but the view was certainly worth the effort.
We had arrived into the landscape of glaciers and had it all to ourselves to appreciate. Very special.
22/7/23 - Hornafjörður - Kirkjubæjarklaustur
Now if you think we can pronounce the names of these towns you would be greatly mistaken. Thank goodness we had a map to know where we were!
Todays ride was dominated by views of the glacier Vatnajökul the largest ice cap in Iceland and second largest in Europe. It has some 30 glaciers flowing out from it and they are encompassed in the Vatnajökull National Park.
Riding the Ring Road today we were on the tourist trail and that was certainly evident when we stopped at Jökulsarlon Glacier Lake. The lake has formed as the Breiðamerkurjökull glacier has receded from the Atlantic Ocean. It provided close up views of the glacial ice along with its resident seals. It was quite surreal to be watching chunks of glacial ice breaking away from the icebergs then drifting out to the ocean.
More stunning scenery followed throughout the day before a final detour to get close to one last glacial tongue. It was also a shake down for tomorrows ride which promised to hold one or two challenging river crossings..
A surprise gathering of the group was held in the evening where our guides Thomas and Nicco presented a fine whiskey to be shared - cooled down with a chunk of ice straight from the Glacier. That was certainly a memorable way to finish another great day.
23/7/23 Kirkjubæjarklaustur - Geysir
Our group today split to take two routes. The first along the Ring Road with one of the highlights being a Puffin breeding ground. Given my passion for puffins it was a hard call, but the scenic route with some 20 plus river crossings won out and we headed off with half the group on F208.
The day was truly about the ride, getting everyone through the crossings safely and fixing tires.
In what felt like the middle of no where was a camp ground called Landmannalaugar. In the heart of Icelands southern Highlands it is part of the Fjallabak Nature Reserve and is a vast area renown for hiking and its hot spring bathing pools. For us it was a great lunch spot where from a US Style Bus kitchen the best toasted ham and cheese sandwich and hot coffee was delivered. At the equivalent cost of 60 euro for two it was expensive but after the ride to get this far I think we would not have cared if they had charged 100! It was also the fuel needed to continue on through the lava fields that were to follow.
A great ride day that also felt so good to have achieved once comfortably home, sharing the stories and reflecting on the photos.
24/7/23 Final Days ride - Geyser to Reyjavik
The day started out according to plan with the mornings briefing but just a kilometer down the road those plans took an unexpected turn.
As our bike was in the back of the van due to the tire continuing to leak despite numerous patches and replacing not being an option. (That’s another story) we had taken over Brent’s bike and Brent had taken over our guides Thomas’s bike. Our “Leader” was now in the van with Nico. The idea of following a van on our last day did not seem over exciting but just a kilometer down the road the van decided to fail.
So as Brent had the Leaders bike he was now leading the way home as Thomas and Nico limped the van back to Reykjavik. As we pulled back into the hotel grounds at the end of the day we all agreed it had turned out to be a great final days ride.
Welcoming us at carpark were Thomas and Nico ready with a “Boot Beer” to celebrate the end of a great tour.
Thanks to Edelweiss and our fellow riders.
25/7/23 Reykjavík
The 25th was departure day for most of our group but we had opted for an extra two nights to see a little more of Reykajavik and to celebrate Andrews birthday. In the morning we headed next door to the harbour to join a Puffin Cruise. Given that the Puffin Cruise only ventured out a few miles from the shoreline to the islands of Akurey and Lundey we did not hold high expectations of any sightings. But how wrong we were. There were so many Puffins, in the sea, in the air and on the land. I was in Puffin heaven!
26/7/23 The Blue Lagoon
After a final walk around the streets of Reykjavik we headed off to the Silica Hotel that adjoins the Blue Lagoon. An afternoon spent wallowing in the warm waters of the lagoon and a special meal in the Lava Restaurant at the hotel had capped off a very special trip to Iceland. As we flew out we caught a glimpse of the volcano Fagradalsfjall that had erupted just prior to our arrival. We feel for the people of Grindavik whose lives have been thrown into turmoil since our visit by the power of the volcanic system that is reclaiming areas of the peninsular that we had been so fortune to have ridden.
The tour had been described as Fire and Ice and it certainly delivered views of both. Iceland is an incredibly beautiful place and surprisingly big. There is so much more there still to explore.
