A loop of the Cyclades
Our loop for our twelve day run with Barry and Kim in the Cyclades
Over the twelve days Kim and Barry were onboard we managed to revisit the islands from last season of Kythnos, Milos, Sifnos, Despotiko, Paros and Syros. Revisiting these islands gave us a chance to revisit favourite anchorages, explore further and discover more. A great trip but as always it seemed to come to an end way too fast.
Monday 22nd May - Olympic Marina to Sounion Bay
The sailing season in this area always feels like it has started when we poke around the corner from the marina and put the anchor down in Sounion Bay. The backdrop of Poseidon’s Temple is a special way to appreciate being on the water in Greece.
Tuesday 23rd May - Sounion Bay to Kalona Bay Kythnos
When we headed out of Sounion on Tuesday morning our plan had been to sail to Milos but following seas made for uncomfortable conditions and the decision was made to turn left into Kalona Bay Kythnos instead.
Photo: Kalona Beach
It turned out to be the best decision as this popular bay was practically empty.
We took a short walk along Kalona Beach, a small stretch of sand that connects Kythnos to the Islet of Agios Loukas. In the peak of summer it is covered in umbrellas and the restaurant is pumping music meals and drinks. The bar was open for the season and was the perfect place to have our first Aperol Spritz - summer had officially started.
Wednesday 24th - Thursday 25th May
Kalona Bay Kythnos to Adamantas Milos
Next stop Milos on anchor outside the main port of Adamantas. A repeat of our last visit with this time Barry at the wheel and Andrew navigating on our drive day around the island.
We covered new ground visiting the old town of Plaka, ate again at the pretty boatshed village of Klima and Andrew managed a chilly dip in the waters at Sarakiniko Beach.
We couldn’t revisit Milos without going to dinner at OHamas restaurant and the food and service once again didnt disappoint.
Driving around Milos in our appropriately small car our first stop was at Plathiena Beach. Located on the northern end of the gulf of Milos we once again were challenged to capture the true colour of the water. Still obviously a little early in the season for this beach as the poles await the arrival of the umbrellas and the people.
From Plaka high on the hill we were afforded some great views across Milos .
For a lunch stop it is hard to beat the view from the small village of Klima with its colorful fishing boat sheds most of which have now been turned into accomodation.
Final beach stop of the day was Sarakiniko Beach where the white volcanic rock has been sculpted into dramatic shapes and has often been compared to a moonscape. The colour of the rock contrasting with the blue of the water makes a very impressive impact and the many cliff faces have attracted those who love to cliff jump young and old.
And the evening was again finished off at O’Hamas Restaurant
Friday 26th - Milos to Vathy on Sifnos
Our relaxed breakfast and intended departure time was brought forward by the arrival of Celestyal Cruises whose captain decided to park beside us and then demand that we leave immediately. Now that’s a first.
Port Vathy is definitely one of our favourite anchorages. When we arrived last year in the company of Savvy of London they introduced us to the small pottery studio Atsonios across the bay. The family run ceramics buisiness that proudly goes back four generations was up until 1993 only accessible by sea. All of the products in particular the traditional tsoukali had to be transported to Athens by boat. I came across this article recently when looking up information about the studio. Of course there is a little more pottery onboard the boat now. https://www.greekgastronomyguide.gr/en/item/keramika-atsonios-sifnos/
The other highlight of this bay is the restaurant Tsilkali that sits on the beach with the water almost lapping at the feet of the tables. On one side your view is of the beautiful church taking pride of place on the end of the pier that is lit up at night. On the other side you are looking out to the boats in the bay. Being early in the season the owner was proud to have the time to talk to us about the history of the restaurant established by his father 41 years ago, that the produce for most of the season comes from their own farm and how his mum still overseas the traditional deserts served.
Saturday 27th - Vathy Sifnos to Despotiko North on the South of Antiparos
After a small detour via the Port of Kamarai to complete necessary paperwork for the boat we continued onto the anchorage of North Despotiko on the southern end of Antiparos where we had a view in the distance of The Sanctuary of Apollo.
Staying on anchor in this bay on the Sunday was to hide from strong winds, so obviously getting to shore to enjoy a meal at the Taverna and then to cross the bay to the ruins meant someone was definitely going to get wet no matter how careful our dinghy driver. But the meal and the walk amongst the ruins made the subsequent damp return to the boat worthwhile.
The Sanctuary of Apollo believed to have flourished in the 6th Century BC was first excavated in the 19th century but more detailed excavation did not continue until 1997. During this time archeologists determined that this small island may have been as important as the settlement in Delos in antiquity. In 2020 a complex water collection system was uncovered. Signage indicated that there we great plans for this site including a museum but sadly like many of the archeological sites in Greece funding is not available to continue with such grand plans and the works are slowly deteriorating and disappearing once again.
Monday 29th Despotiko North To Ormos Marmara Paros
Part of the pleasure of sailing is always catching up with friends on anchor. So it was great to once again have Katherine and Savvy of London back together in a bay particularly one as pretty as Marmara, We decided it called for a celebration with Champagne.
Tuesday 30th - Ormos Marmar to Naoussa Paros
Naoussa is another one of those places we would have to put in our top 5 for returning to in the Cyclades. The streets of the old town surrounding the port are a maze of white washed buildings, with splashes of Bougainvillea. Restaurants on every corner, shopping of every level.
Wednesday 31st May Naoussa Paros to Finnikas Bay Syros
Today we commenced our loop back towards Lavrio calling into the familiar port of Finnikas on Syros.
Thursday 1st June - Finnikas Bay Syros to Kalona Bay Kythnos
We started the morning with a trip across to the main port of Ermoupoli to walk around and enjoy lunch before heading out with the intention of stopping in the recommended bay of Loutra.
Unfortunately our driver both there and back decided that they were ex rally drivers and we doubt that did anything for Kim’s motion sickness. On arriving into Loutra on Kythnos it was quickly decided that the bay was not made for the size of Katherine. A quick exit and decision was made to round the corner of Kthynos to Kalona Bay. Being the night before change over of charter boats the bay was unlike our first stop, rather more occupied, but as we know from experience nothing like it will be in the month of August
Friday 2nd June - Kalona Bay to Olympic Marine Lavrio
After a good sail and a bit of rain we were back to the marina.
It was time to pack a suit case we were leaving Katherine to fly to Santorini. Very excited.
