2023 Returning to Greece.
9th May - 21st May
Olympic Marina Sounion and visiting Athens
We arrived back onboard Katherine on the 9th May. During winter a list of maintenance items had been achieved by X-Yachting Greece but as always when we return, “organised Chaos” seems to prevail as we prepare to start sailing for the season.
Photo: Definitely nice to have someone happy to clean the rig
Photo: Past and present owners of Rauschkugel
In our first few days we were fortunate to meet the new owners of Rauschkugel. A group of buyers who have been friends for many years and chartered boats together in many places.. Though very emotional for the previous owner on handover day as the boat has been in the family for some 40 years, we believe they can take solace in the fact the boat has moved to capable, enthusiastic hands. She is certainly going to be taken on new passages with love and enthusiasm. It was great to meet them and we hope our paths will cross again on the water.
Athens Traffic - definitely better to be a passenger.
Given that our first attempt to visit Athens last year was dashed by weather and chaotic charter boats it seemed the ideal way to welcome Barry and Kim Mounce from Louisiana and to start their holiday with us in Greece.
Unfortunately on the 18th May the normal madness of Athens traffic was amplified by a political speech being held in Syntagma Square just a short walk from our accommodation. Streets were blocked off, traffic was brought to a stand still and in the end the easiest solution was to exit the taxi and proceed on foot.
Welcome to Athens.
Over three days we managed to squeeze in an overload of history, discovered some great back street local bars, markets and restaurants. Our accommodation was perfectly located in the walking street Ermou central to everything. Driving in Athens we had determined was only for the incredibly brave or certified mad.
Day 1 - Walking Monastiriki
Photo: The Evzones on guard at the Monument of the Unknown Soldier
We took the opportunity being Friday to watch the Evzones a dedicated unit of soldiers whose role is to guard the Monument of the Unknown Soldier. This cenotaph dedicated to Greek soldiers who have died at war was constructed between 1930 and 1932.
For one hour, after a ceremonial profession come slow march routine, they assume their posts and stand perfectly still until the whole ritual is repeated with the fresh guards on the next hour. We were happy we had taken the opportunity to stop and watch as there were relatively few people. Sunday at 11am when we returned to see the guards change in traditional uniform the crowds were ridiculously deep. It seemed wiser to capture a photograph as the guards arrived then head for a quiet cafe for the morning coffee.
Day 2 - Walking tour of Plaka and the Acropolis
Photo: Walking Plaka with Guide Efi
We engaged the services of a local guide under the recommendation of our accomodation. Efi proved to be a great guide and her first tip of starting early at 8.30am definitely paid off as we got to walk through the streets of Plaka with very few people around.
When we arrived at the Acropolis gates there was already a line up. Apparently the day before, even those who had prepurchased tickets, were faced with a 2 hour waiting time for entry by 1030am. The guides are currently calling it a crisis and that something must be done to managed the crowds from Cruise ships and local visitors before the peak season of July and August when crowds swell and the heat soars.
Photo: The entrance to the Acropolis - The Propylaia built 437 - 432 BC
Without a guide I doubt we could have gotten as much out of visiting the Acropolis site as we did.
Efi started our tour from the Theatre of Dionysos, before we continued past the Theatre of Herodes Atticus built in AD 161 and restored in 1955 and still used for concerts every summer with world renown artists. We saw throne like chairs in the Amphitheatre not previously seen on any sites we have visited. In between the two theatres ran the remains of Stoa of Eumenes, columns built it is believed to provide protection for the people from the weather and to store items.
But the highlight without a doubt was the Acropolis - the highest point of Athens on which sits the remains of The Temple of Athena Nike, The Porch of Caryatids and the Parthenon the symbol of modern Athens.
Photo: Athens Archeological Museum at Night
From the Acropolis we moved on to the Acropolis Museum. The museum was built in 2009 and is an archeological museum dedicated to all artifacts found on or surrounding the rock on which the Acropolis sits. The building is set over the site of an early Christian Settlement, as you approach the entrance you walk over glass floor that reveals the excavations below. This city truly is just layers upon layers of history.
Unfortunately one bone of contention since the museums opening is that the Frieze from the Parthenon that has stood on display in the British Museum since 1817 was to have been returned to take pride of place on a wall dedicated to its display. Perhaps in the future these pieces will be reinstated with those that are currently displayed.
To finish off an amazing day we headed to the Stofi Athenian Restaurant where we dined with the best view of the Acropolis, delicious food and excellent friendly service. Our accommodation hosts had done it again.
Day 3: A last look before heading to the boat
Before checking out of Ermou 6 our great accomodation we headed back to the Tomb of the unknown soldier to view the Evzones in traditional uniform completing the 11am changeover. With crowds growing in anticipation we positioned ourselves for their march into the square captured our photos and were off.
A great introduction to Athens. Without a doubt there is so much more to see.
Photo: Barry and Kim ready to board
With our tour of Athens completed it was time to get underway and go sailing.