Heading for the Small or Lesser Cyclades

The Cyclades and Lesser or Smaller Cyclades islands

Sunset Finikas Bay Syros

After the installation of our new wind vane - always handy to know where the wind is coming from and how strong, we left Lavrio marina and headed south east first calling into the familiar port of Finikas Bay Syros before continuing on to the main port of Paros, Parikia.

Previously we have favored the northern bay of Naoussa on Paros but winds were not agreeable and paper work in the form of our Transit Log had to be completed with the local Port Police. Our intention for this next few weeks of sailing was to get to the Lesser Cyclades and the island of Amorgos. Good to have a plan, even better to be able to change that plan.

Port Parikia

We chose to anchor away from the main port area off the beach of Krios where we had a perfect view of the township, a church on the edge of the bay and water with incredible clarity. The added advantage was the wash from the continuous stream of ferries that arrived and departed from this port were less intrusive then had we chosen the inner bay closer to the harbour.

Tuesday 13th June - Paros to Folegandros

Arriving into the anchorage of Agali Beach on Folegandros we were surprised to see that we were in the company of around eight yachts. For some naïve reason we had expected this anchorage to be relatively deserted, but we soon realised thanks to apps such as Navily gems of locations such as this one, are being shared and enjoyed by more sailors.

Photo: Katherine on anchor Agali Beach

Folegandros is one of the smallest inhabited islands in the Cyclades with its Chora (old town) perched on a cliff side some 300m above sea level. From our anchorage it was about an hours walk uphill so we opted for the alternative of a 2 euro 50 bus ride.

A Green oasis

In stark contrast to the white washed buildings and stone pathways were the green squares scattered around the village. These green spaces must be such a welcome refuge from the heat when temperatures soar during summer.

We wondered the streets, walked the hill to the Church of Panagia which offered views across the bay and of the village perched on the cliffside. Lunch was had beneath the shade of a very old gnarly tree in one of the squares before taking the precarious bus ride back down the hill.
A very rugged island with a beautiful village.

Agali Beach

Without a doubt this rugged rocky island is one that we will happily put on the list to return to.

Photo: Dovecote Schinoussa Bay

Schinoussa was our next anchorage. One of the four islands that make up the Lesser Cyclades it has a population of less than four hundred and an area of less than nine square kilometers. We unfortunately didn’t get to shore on this visit as wind conditions began to build. On the Friday we had intended to leave the bay in search of a calmer anchorage but opted in the end to stay - a good decision given winds blew to 20 plus knots and over 24 hours we faced every direction in the harbour.

Nikouria Beach Nth West Amorgos

Saturday 17th June we found the bay off Nikouria Beach which was surrounded by rugged mountainsides. Any idea of going into the small harbour of Amorgos had been dashed as the weather conditions continued to deteriorate and the forecast of another meltimi heading our way.
The decision was made best to take refuge from the wind so on Sunday we planned to cross to Leros.

So we are farewelling the Cyclades and heading for a marina on the island of Leros in the Dodecanese group to do a little land touring and to leave the worry of the wind behind for a few days.

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The Dodecanese Island of Leros

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Santorini