The Dodecanese Island of Leros
Image taken from greecetravelideas.com really shows how close some of the islands like Kasterllorizo is to Turkey
Photo: Katherine secure in Leros Marina
The Dodecanese Islands are a group of 15 larger islands and a cluster of smaller islands that are located on the South eastern side of the Aegean sea many a stones throw to Turkey. Our plan had been to spend time in the marina at Leros for some respite from the winds before continuing island hoping a little north.
Photo: Portolago Bay and our go anywhere hire car
Our guide book did not overflow with optimism for tourism on the island of Leros with its recent history centered around hosting prison camps for political prisoners and mental hospitals. Undeterred we hired a car for two days for what seems the standard marina price, 30 euro a day (excellent) and drove literally up goat tracks, to each corner of the island discovering why a lot of sailors choose to use Leros as their base for their boats.
Lakki a short walk from the marina is the main port for Leros. During the Italian occupation of the Dodecanese Islands from 1912 to 1943 Leros was transformed into an important nautical and aerial base for the Italians. During this period of occupation Mussolini engaged architects to build a “visionary city“ and the result today is a collection of art deco styled buildings in various states of decay or renovation. Through discussions we came to the conclusion that this period of occupation by the Italians is one that still today causes sadness and shame for some locals who had family involved in the Italian army. Despite the period that these buildings represent it is good to see that they are recognised as a time capsule of history worthy of restoration for the future.
Another remnant of the Italian occupation was found on the top of Turtura Hill up a gravel road that not even our trusty hire car could ascend. The building was apparently the barracks of the Italians San Marco and was decorated with frescos that are slowly deteriorating over time as the building has been left to be occupied by the local goats and sheep. On the side of the road acting as guard rails were old bed frames - taking repurposing to a whole new level.
Photo: Byzantine Kastro occupied once by the Knights of St John occupies the hilltop over the town of Plantanos
We drove to the Castle of Pandeli built originally during the Byzantine era then occupied by ruling forces over the centuries. Within the ruins was a small temple which has been dedicated to Unknown Christian Martyr. There was also a small Ecclesiastical Museum run by the most enthusiastic guide dedicated to sharing the historical knowledge of the castle and Leros. Fortunately or unfortunately after half and hour another set of visitors arrived and we were made our escape much more knowledgeable about Leros through the ages.
Photo: Church of Agios Isidoros
Leros certainly had its picture postcard share of churches but three that really stood out were Church of Agios Isidoros that was connected to land by a small pathway, Church of Panagia Kavouradena which was tucked into a rock wall on the side of Xirokampas Bay and Church of Prophet Elias which was perched on a point beside the castle (Kastro) looking out over Pantanos. Each church has its own story associated as to how it came to be where it was built. One common thread throughout Greece of all the churches we have visited no matter how small they are, all are carefully maintained and definitely reflect an ongoing importance in the daily lives of the community of which they are a associated.
Photo: Catching up with Christene and Peter from Hamble
One of the best rewards that has come from travelling has definitely been the people we have met along the way. We first met Peter and Christene in Las Palmas as we were all about to set off across the Atlantic. Fast forward to 2014 we met again in Hamble as they were finalizing their order on their beautiful XC42 Oojah. So it was an unexpected, but a wonderful surprise to find out they had just returned to Leros marina, their base for their boat, having been cruising since April. A lot of catching up was achieved over a few days - here is to hoping it isn’t as long to our next meeting.
So with touring of the island done, new acquaintances made and old ones renewed it was time to head off to explore a few of the Dodecanese islands surrounding Leros.